Creating and Defining Pleats

If you have created a pleat in 2D you can adjust its properties in 3D to make sure it simulates correctly without any collisions and without having to cut the pattern to achieve the pleat. For more information about creating pleats in 2D, see Creating Pleats

ClosedPleat Parts (click to view the different parts of a pleat)

A pleat in Optitex is made up of different parts:

1: Pleat Direction: Shows the direction of the pleat either CW (clockwise) or CCW (counter clockwise). In the above example the pleat is CW direction. The direction changes according to the type of pleat you select in the Pleat Properties dialog.

2: Neighbor Line: There are two neighbor lines on both sides of the pleat.

3: Arrow: Shows the horizontal direction of the pleat (up or down).

4: Pleat Line: The mid line of the extra fabric. It starts at the external contour and ends at the external contour.

Note: Starting from version 15.6SP3 and later you can no longer define folding on pleats.

To create and define pleats in 3D:

  1. Open up your PDS file.

In this example we previously created a pleated dress:

  1. To add another pleat, from the toolbar click , or press "L" on your keyboard.

  2. Select the starting point of the pleat and click with your mouse, then drag your mouse to the ending point of the pleat and click as follows:

Once the pleat is created, the Pleat Properties dialog displays :

  1. Enter the main details of the pleat as follows:

Field

Description

Main

 

Name

Enter a name for the pleat.

Pleat Type

From the drop-down list, select the pleat type:

Axe: A line that has no depth and cannot be opened.

Knife Pleat CW: One neighbor line is placed on the other neighbor line in clockwise direction (relatively to the pleat start point).

Knife Pleat CCW: One neighbor line is placed on the other neighbor line in counter clockwise direction (relatively to the pleat start point).

Box Pleat: Made by a CCW knife pleat and a CW knife pleat.

Depth

The width of the fabric between the Pleat Line and the Neighbor Line (when the pleat is closed, the total width of additional fabric will be twice the depth).

Variable

Sets the pleat as a variable pleat with different depths from start and end points.

Variable Depth

If Variable is selected, this options sets the depth of the last point of the variable pleat.

Open

If selected, indicates the pleat is open, not closed.

Dashed Line

Sets the pleat with a dashed line.

Notch View

From the drop-down list, select one of the following:

This field is dynamic according to the type of pleat.

Knife Pleat CW/CCW Full

 

Knife Pleat CW/CCW Side

Knife Pleat CW/CCW Center

Axe Pleat Full (this is the only view for Axe pleats)

Box Pleat Full

Box Pleat Side

Box Pleat Center

 

Notch Location

Defines the location of the notch.

Both: The notch appears at the top and the bottom of the pleat

Start: The notch appears at the top of the pleat

End: The notch appears at the bottom of the pleat

  1. If you are creating multiple pleats, define the attributes in the Multiple Pleats section:

Field

Description

Number of Pleats

Enter the number of pleats you require.

Distance

Enter the distance you want between each pleat.

Variable Distance

Sets the pleat as a variable pleat with different distances between the multiple pleats.

Distribution Direction

Sets the direction of the pleat.

  1. If you are defining plotter/cutter attributes, define them in the Plotting and Cutting Attributes section.

Field

Description

Command

Sets the command of the axis for the cutter.

Notch Direction

Sets the direction of the pleat, inside or outside the cloth.

This field is dynamic according to the pleat type. The following example was created on a Box Pleat.

Note: This field is only enabled for V notches. If you are using an I or T notch, this field will be disabled.

Inside

Outside

Notch Form and Dimensions

Note: By default, the dimensions are according to how you defined the notch dimensions in the Preferences; however you can change the dimensions using these parameters (this overrides the default preferences).

Show/Plot/Cut form

Sets the type of notch: This field is dynamic according to the pleat type. The following examples were created on Axe Pleats

I Notch

V Notch

Note: The V notch will be part of the contour when plotting/cutting.

T Notch

Box Notch

Note: The Box notch will be part of the contour when plotting/cutting.

Notch Depth

Sets the notch depth.

Example: Box-Notch Depth (0.5CM)

Example: Box-Notch Depth (1 CM)

This changes according to the notch form type.

Notch Width

Sets the notch width.

Example: Box-Notch Width (0.5CM)

Example: Box-Notch Width (1 CM)

This changes according to the notch form type

Note: This field is only available for T-Notch, V-Notch and Box-Notch types. If you are using an I-Notch, this field is disabled.

Notch Top Width

Sets the width of the top notch.

Example: Box-Notch Top Width (0.5 CM)

Example: Box-Notch Top Width (1 CM)

This changes according to the notch form type.

Note: This field is only available for T-Notch and Box-Notch types. If you are using an I-Notch or V-Notch, this field is disabled.

 

  1. To make sure the pleat simulates correctly in 3D, expand the Pleat 2D/ 3D View Attributes section and define as follows:

Field

Description

External Pleat

If you have extra fabric with the pleat and you want it to appear in the front (not in the back), then select this checkbox.

Base Cross Stitch

From the drop-down list, select the position of the base cross stitch. The default is Start.

Fold Sections

If you need to fold the pleat, click the button to define the start and end of the fold section. For more information, see Defining Fold Sections.

Note: Starting from 15.6SP3, this option is no longer available.

Iron Sections

If you need to add an iron section, click the button to define the start and end of the ironed section. For more information, see Defining Iron Sections.

Cross Stitch Sections

If you want to define a cross stitch, click the button to define the location of the cross stitch. For more information, see Defining Cross Stitch Sections.

Closed Sections

If you need to close the pleat, click the button to define the start and end of the closed section. For more information, see Defining Closed Sections.

  1. When you are done defining the pleat properties, click Simulate to see how your pleat looks in 3D.

Here is how our pleated dress looks when it is done simulating: